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        Understanding the Numbers on Your Riflescope

        Understanding the Numbers on Your Riflescope

        A lot of numbers get thrown around when people talk riflescopes. You’ll hear phrases like “three to nine” and “five to one.” But if you’re new to hunting or shooting, you may be wondering what those figures mean. Fortunately, the key to that code is etched right into your new Leupold optic. In this article, we will break down what all those numbers on your riflescope represent.

        Zoom Ratio


        If you’re unfamiliar with the term zoom ratio, it’s simply the relationship between an optic’s magnification values. Have a look at the objective end of your scope, and you’ll see a black or gold ring with a short list of information on it. The first number on that list is usually attached to a series name, such as the 6 in VX-6HD (shown above).

        At Leupold, we use this model number as a quick way to identify your scope’s zoom ratio. In this example, the VX-6HD is built around a 6:1 zoom ratio meaning its top-end magnification will always be six times greater than its low-end magnification.

        A VX-5HD or Mark 5HD riflescope, for example, are built around a 5:1 zoom ratio. While our VX-3HD and Mark 3HD are built on a 3:1 zoom ratio. So if you’re ever curious what your zoom ratio is, just refer to the model name on your scope.

        (The only model this doesn’t hold true is in the VX-Freedom series. Scopes in that series have a 3:1 zoom ratio, but there isn’t a number in their name to help you figure that out.)

        Magnification Range


        The numbers listed after the series name indicate your scope’s magnification range. These numbers vary from model to model, but remember, the zoom ratio will always dictate their limits. In the case of a VX-5HD (which has a 5:1 zoom ratio), its magnification offerings include: 1-5, 2-10, 3-15. 4-20, or 7-35. The first number represents the lowest optical magnification, while the higher number represents the max magnification.

        For example, in the VX-5HD 3-15 shown above, your lowest setting magnification setting available is x3 power. But using your power-selector, you can also magnify your image up to x15 power. And while that is a bit of a condensed explanation, our Magnification 101 article will fill in the gaps if you’re interested in learning more.

        Objective Lens


         The objective lens is located nearest the objects being viewed, and its diameter in millimeters is the last number listed on your scope. In the example above, the objective lens of the Mark 3HD is 50mm. Larger objective lenses allow more light to enter an optic, making them extremely popular among hunters and shooters who want the brightest image possible in low-light situations. But there are plenty of options when it comes to objective lens sizes, and they all collect tons of light. Objective lens sizes can range from 32mm all the way up to 56mm. The last thing to keep in mind is that a larger objective lens means you may need taller mounts to avoid your optic touching the rifle. You can use our mount finder tool to get a recommendation for your specific setup.

        Elevation, Windage, and Parallax Adjustments


        The elevation and windage dials are two more places aside from the bell and power selector where you’ll find etched-in numbers. The top turret is the elevation dial, and the windage dial is on the right; These are the areas you’ll want to focus on when you’re sighting in your scope. As far as those numbers go, they’ll either be represented in MOA or MILs. MOA, which stands for Minute of Angle, is the measurement system favored by American hunters, while MILs is the abbreviation for milliradians. Armed forces generally prefer to use MILs, but both units of measurement work equally well for most applications.

        Alternatively, every CDS® (Custom Dial System) compatible scope is eligible to redeem one free custom dial. A CDS dial simplifies your shooting process by customizing the markings on your elevation dial from MOA or MILS to yards for your specific setup. You can learn more about CDS and order your custom dial here.

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        The parallax adjustment (also called side focus) is the last spot on your riflescope where there might be numbers. If your riflescope has one, it’ll be opposite the windage dial. This adjustment knob allows you to account for parallax by tweaking the position of the objective lens assembly, bringing objects into focus while stabilizing your reticle. But what is parallax? In short, it’s an optical illusion that occurs when your target and reticle are on different focal planes. You can see it in action by moving your head around while looking through your scope. As soon as you change your viewing angle, the reticle will appear to move or swim around.

        For most people, especially hunters, parallax isn’t something worth stressing over. But if you’re a long-range precision shooter who needs bullet-on-bullet accuracy, a parallax adjustment is a must-have addition that’ll help you tighten your groups. Just zoom in on a target to whatever magnification you’re comfortable with, then turn the dial until you get a crisp picture and a reticle that stays put.

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        Now you should have a good understanding of all the numbers on your new Leupold riflescope. So, the next time you hear someone refer to their optic as a "three-to-fifteen by forty-four with a CDS dial and a side focus parallax adjustment," you’ll know exactly what they mean. Welcome to the club.

        Understanding the Difference Between Night Vision and Thermal

        Understanding the Difference Between Night Vision and Thermal

        For outdoor enthusiasts, hunters, and tactical professionals, navigating the world of advanced optics can be daunting. Two of the most popular technologies used for low-light and no-light environments are night vision and thermal imaging. Each has unique strengths, operational differences, and ideal use cases, but understanding their distinctions can guide users to the right choice for their specific needs.

        The Technology Behind the Tools

        Night Vision: Night vision devices amplify ambient light, such as starlight or moonlight, to create an image. These devices rely on an image intensifier tube, which collects light and converts photons into electrons, amplifying them to produce a visible image. This process creates the classic green or black-and-white visuals commonly associated with night vision goggles and scopes.

        Thermal Imaging: Thermal optics, on the other hand, detect heat rather than light. All objects emit infrared radiation, with hotter objects emitting more. Thermal devices use sensors to capture this radiation and convert it into a heat map or image, distinguishing targets based on their temperature relative to their surroundings. This technology does not require ambient light, making it highly effective in complete darkness.

        Key Differences Between Night Vision and Thermal Imaging

        Performance in Lighting Conditions

        • Night Vision: Requires some level of ambient light to function. While effective in low-light environments, performance diminishes in complete darkness or during overcast nights. Artificial light sources, such as infrared illuminators, can enhance visibility, but they can also give away the user’s position if opposing forces or hunted animals can see infrared light.

        • Thermal Imaging: Operates independently of light, excelling in total darkness, dense fog, or thick vegetation where light amplification is insufficient.

        Target Identification

        • Night Vision: Offers high-resolution imagery, making it easier to identify facial features, clothing, or subtle movements. This makes night vision a strong choice for applications requiring detailed observation. However, its range is often limited by the availability of ambient light, usually maxing out at an average of 300 yards.

        • Thermal Imaging: Highlights heat sources but lacks the finer details. While it’s excellent for detecting animals or people, the inability to see defining features may make identification more challenging at close ranges.

        Environmental Adaptability

        • Night Vision: Struggles in environments with excessive ambient light, such as urban settings, where streetlights or headlights can cause glare and wash out the image. Additionally, heavy fog, rain, or smoke can obstruct performance.

        • Thermal Imaging: Excels in obscured environments like smoke, light fog, or rain, as heat signatures are not affected by visual obstructions. However, extreme heat or reflective surfaces, such as water or metal, can interfere with thermal accuracy.

        Cost and Accessibility

        • Night Vision: Generally more affordable and widely available. It is often the entry point for those new to low-light optics and is frequently used by hobbyists, security professionals, and hunters.

        • Thermal Imaging: Typically more expensive due to the advanced sensors and processing technology required. Its cost reflects its versatility and capability in adverse conditions.

        Choosing the Right Tool for the Job

        When deciding between night vision and thermal optics, consider your primary use case. For hunters seeking to track game hidden in dense brush, thermal imaging offers a significant advantage due to its ability to easily distinguish between living things and foliage, defeating natural camouflage. For users needing detailed observation at relatively close range or working in environments with some ambient light, night vision remains a practical choice.

        At Pulsar, we’re dedicated to equipping outdoor enthusiasts and professionals with cutting-edge optics designed for diverse applications. Whether you need monoculars, riflescopes, clip-ons, or binoculars, Pulsar provides advanced solutions for all your low-light vision needs.

         

        To shop Pulsar thermal devices, click here.

        FAQs

        What is the difference between night vision and thermal imaging?

        Night vision amplifies ambient light to create an image, while thermal imaging detects heat rather than light.

        How do night vision and thermal imaging perform in different lighting conditions?

        Night vision requires ambient light, while thermal imaging operates independently of light.

        What are the differences in target identification between night vision and thermal imaging?

        Night vision offers high-resolution imagery for detailed observation, while thermal imaging highlights heat sources but lacks finer details.

        How do night vision and thermal imaging adapt to different environments?

        Night vision struggles in environments with excessive ambient light, while thermal imaging excels in obscured environments.

        What are the cost and accessibility differences between night vision and thermal imaging?

        Cost and accessibility vary for night vision and thermal imaging technologies.

        The Importance of a Correctly Fitted Shotgun

        The Importance of a Correctly Fitted Shotgun


        The fit of a shotgun is just as important as the ammunition you choose. Shooters spend hours debating choke selection and load, and almost no time thinking about whether the gun actually fits them.

        That matters. No matter how good your technique is, a gun that doesn’t fit you will cost you on the range and in the field. Fit is the foundation everything else is built on.

        With over 500 years of firearms expertise behind us, we know that a correctly fitted shotgun isn’t a luxury reserved for competitive shooters. It’s where every shooter should start. Here’s how we approach it.

        The Four Areas That Matter

        When we talk about gun fit, there are 3 places where the gun connects with your body on your shooting side: into the shoulder, into the face, and at the grip. Get those 3 areas right for your build and your shooting style, and the gun becomes an extension of you. Get them wrong, and no amount of practice fully compensates.

        A gun set up for field or sporting clays is not the same as one set up for trap shooting. The way you mount, the speed you shoot, the clothing you’re wearing: all of it feeds into how the gun should be configured. When you shoulder the gun and look down the rib, most shooters want to see a consistent site XXXX with a slight awareness of the rib itself. If you’re seeing too much rib or almost none at all, that’s telling you something about comb height before a fitter even gets involved.

        Weight and balance also play a role that’s often underestimated. Two guns with identical stock dimensions can feel completely different in the hand and at the shoulder depending on where the weight sits. A heavier gun will swing differently, affect your technique, and change how the recoil is displaced. It’s part of why fit isn’t just about measurements. It’s about how the whole package works for you.

        Into the Shoulder: The Butt Plate

        The butt plate is where fit starts. The primary concern here is comfort and contact, specifically achieving full, even contact across the shoulder pocket every time you mount.

        What you’re working to avoid is the toe or the heel of the stock digging in. If either end of the butt plate isn’t making proper contact with the shoulder, that’s where the recoil will focus, and that’s where bruising and discomfort will come from over time. Full shoulder contact spreads the load evenly and protects the shooter.

        Two dimensions determine how well this works: pitch (the angle of the butt plate relative to the barrel) and the overall geometry of the toe and heel. Correct pitch for your build means the entire pad face sits flat against the shoulder, not tilted so one edge bites in.

        Check Position

        Once the butt is in the shoulder, the stock needs to come up to the same point on your face every time. This is controlled by three things: the height of the comb and the cast of the stock/pitch.

        The comb is the top of the stock where your cheek rests. Its height controls how high your eye sits above the rib. Too low, and your eye drops below the sighting plane and the gun shoots low. Too high, and the opposite happens. Either way, the shooter ends up making unconscious adjustments to their mount to compensate, which means the mount is never the same twice.

        Cast is the lateral dimention in the stock, moving it away from the centreline of the action. For a right-handed shooter, cast off moves the stock to the right; for a left-handed shooter, cast on moves it to the left. The goal is simple: when the gun comes up to your face naturally, your dominant eye should be sitting directly over the centre of the action and looking straight down the rib. Without the right cast for your build, you’ll find yourself rolling your face across the comb to find that line, which introduces inconsistency on every shot.

        Cast also applies to the toe of the stock and how it sits in relation to the shoulder. Getting the cast right for the face and the toe together is what gives you a gun that comes up to the same place, naturally, every time.

        A simple way to check this yourself: mount the gun with your eyes closed, shoulder it naturally, then open them. Where your eye lands tells you exactly what the stock is doing. If you’re consistently off-centre, the stock isn’t bringing you back to the same place. That’s a cast problem worth addressing.

        Charlie Hudson Aiming Shotgun
        Charlie Hudson Aiming Shotgun

        Looking Down the Rib

        In shotgun shooting, your dominant eye is the rear sight. The stock positions that eye, and everything else follows from it.

        A correctly fitted gun, when mounted, should put your eye in a position where the sight picture you see is consistent and natural, not something you have to search for or adjust to. The moment you’re making conscious corrections to find your eye line, the gun is telling you something needs to change.

        We also see this show up in pattern testing. If your technique is sound and you’re still consistently missing in one direction, check the comb before you change your choke. Nine times out of ten, the miss is coming from eye position, not the pattern.

        This is where adjustable combs earn their place, modern Beretta and Benelli competition platforms include adjustable comb systems that let you dial in height and cast without custom woodwork. For shooters who are still finding their fit, or who move between disciplines, that adjustability is worth having. Changes can be made and tested without locking in permanent alterations.

        The Grip and Forend

        These two areas are the most overlooked parts of gun fit, and they matter more than most shooters realise.

        The grip controls how consistently you hold the gun, how much lateral pressure you apply, and how much control you have over the gun’s movement through the swing. The size, radius, depth, and width of the grip all affect whether your hand is able to sit naturally in the same position every time. A grip that’s too straight, too pistol-grip, too wide, or too narrow for your hand will affect your swing and your consistency without you necessarily being able to identify why.

        A simple way to find your natural grip radius: make a relaxed fist without the gun in your hand. That natural curve is what you’re looking for in a grip. If the gun forces your hand into a different shape, your hold will always carry a small amount of tension you won’t notice until you’re shooting a long day. (commented: keep this more about positioning, rather than eliminating)

        The forend follows the same logic. Where your lead hand sits on the forend, and how it grips, influences how you push the gun through the target. If the forend doesn’t suit your hand or your hold, it introduces a variable into the swing that you’ll be managing shot to shot rather than eliminating.

        If you’re having a custom stock built or significant work done, raise it with your fitter.

        Length of Pull

        Length of pull is the distance from the trigger to the recoil pad, and it affects your comfort, your neck and shoulder angle, and how cleanly you can mount the gun.

        Too long and the mount becomes difficult, especially for shorter-armed shooters or those with less shoulder flexibility. Too short and the stock restricts your shooting position and drives harder into the shoulder on recoil.

        A quick field check: with the gun mounted, your thumb should sit roughly a thumb’s width from the tip of your nose.  It’s not a substitute for a proper fitting, but it will tell you quickly whether you’re in the right area.

        Length of pull isn’t static. Your clothing changes it. A gun that mounts perfectly in a summer shirt can feel entirely different under a heavy jacket during late-season duck hunting. If you’re getting a fitting, it’s worth doing it in the clothing you actually intend to shoot in, or at minimum factoring your typical layering into the conversation with your fitter.

        Fit Isn’t a One-Time Thing

        Your body changes, and so does your fit.

        Weight, posture, flexibility, and build all shift over time. A fitting that was correct five years ago may not be serving you as well today. We recommend revisiting your gun fit every couple of years. Not because something has gone wrong, but because staying ahead of those changes keeps your shooting where it should be. It’s a short session that pays back on every day you spend behind a gun.

        Getting a Professional Fitting

        A professional gun fitter isn’t just measuring you and making adjustments. They’re watching you shoot, observing how you mount, how you move, where your gun goes when it comes up naturally, and working from that picture, not just from a tape measure.

        The Beretta Australia Gunsmith team has been leading the industry here for more than 20 years, operating out of our Melbourne head office. We offer a complimentary fitting service with every new Beretta, Benelli, and Franchi competition shotgun purchased through our authorised dealer network. Our team includes Sergei Yauhleuski, former Australian Olympic Team Gunsmith, whose stock work is regarded as among the best available in the country, as many of Australia’s top shooters will attest.

        For most shooters, the standard fitting covers everything they need. If you require more detailed work, we also offer advanced services: comb height adjustment, length of pull modifications, recoil pad upgrades, and full adjustable stock installation. Most sessions run between one and one and a half hours.

        Complimentary fittings are available with every new Beretta, Benelli, and Franchi competition shotgun purchased through our authorised dealer network. Those same brands are also covered by our Free Forever Servicing program: for the life of your gun, we’ll service it free of charge (parts and labour) at any event we attend with our team. We’re regularly at national and state championships and major shoots across Australia, so keep an eye on our events calendar. If you’d like to talk through fit before committing to a gun, reach out to our team.